Gibb River Road - Done and Dusted

Relentless bumping up and down, you feel like you’re getting a workout on one of those tens machines you see on informercials. Then, unexpectedly – relief – a 500m stretch of bitumen – pure smoothness, but before you even get a chance to exhale, we’re back to bump-a-da-bump-a-da. Praying to the Road God to give us another smooth break - in a few hundred kilometres, we’ll get to say namaste. The upside is that with all that clenching I’m sure my pelvic floor is restored.

The Gibb River Road is more than 600km of essentially corrugated road, penetratingly dusty - between Derby and Kununurra in the Kimberleys with another 150kms travelled off the main road to visit all the gorgeous gorges (the reason why you thump your way through this). Whilst the corrugated road sounds off putting to you, wait (or skip) to the end… I have YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY DESTINATION sorted (by flight and on bitumen): El Questro.    

The start of the Gibb

We were lulled into a false sense of ease with the first stretch of road from Derby to the Windjana Gorge turn off being predominantly bitumen. Smooth sailing and way easier than we had anticipated. That didn’t last.

Once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all, you’d think. But, no, once you’ve seen one, you’re addicted and want to see more, see them all and their differences that set each one apart - each and every one worth experiencing.

More gorges-ness

Most of the gorge treks we did in Karajini were from atop of the gorge, but this was from the bottom from the outset so looking up was foreboding. The echo was phenomenal. I wanted to cooee on repeat but with too many other trekkers around, I disappointingly held it in. An aboriginal elder was chanting and playing his tapping sticks to a tour group, such an amazing sound vibrating off the cliff walls and a very spiritual feeling. Then at Bell Gorge, we felt in complete serenity being in the open and beautiful landscape, swimming in the stillest of cool water and going under the forceful waterfall.

The other major difference in the scenery are the boab trees – a natural part of the Kimberley landscape. Here’s a fun fact: they survive fires as their porous fibres hold so much water – for that same reason, don’t stand under them in a thunderstorm as water attracts lightning.

Crocs in the wild

We saw crocodiles in the wild for the first time at Windjana Gorge. Freshies – so nothing to be scared about, so much smaller and sedate than the gargantua saltwater crocs we’d seen at the Crocodile Park – we were almost happy to jump in and go for a swim with them. Oh wait we did… the next day.

The best adventure yet

Tunnel Creek Gorge was ‘the best thing yet’ (Rio’s excited words) ‘because it was pitch black – so dark that you had to go through the water with a head torch on. You could spot all the red eyes through the dark of the crocs and fish and there was a hot shower (waterfall)’. I agree it was the best family adventure we’ve done yet. Knowing there were crocs in the water (even if they were just freshwater ones) added to the adventure and the kid’s excitement fuelled our own.

The best feeling yet

As gorgeous as all the gorges are, the best feeling is meeting all the wonderful people along the way, hearing where they’re from and their stories. Then, there’s the even more wonderful feeling of ‘clicking’ and knowing you’re going to be friends post this adventure and see each other again. We met three families on the day we trekked to Manning Gorge that set the fun tone of – surprise, surprise, the best day yet. I know I say it too much, but things just get better and better, and sharing experiences with others wins hands down.

The Manning Gorge trek starts with a swim we crossed that first river together with a farming family from Griffith and took on the 3km intensely rocky trek to the biggest waterfall and pool we’d come across yet. The kids had a blast jumping off rocks together, Rio taking that exact moment to learn to do backflips into the water, off rockfaces, with the closest hospital 12 hours away [yes, I was freaking out]. I was already stressed out watching an older gentleman slip twice before he tried to jump off a high rock into the water like all the kids were doing and he slipped. I was in the water nearest to him and when he resurfaced he shrugged and said “I just realised I’m old now”. With the family from Griffith and 2 others we’d been meeting at stops since Broome from Ballarat and Brisbane, we enjoyed an afternoon of chatting with our new lifelong friends and watched the kids jump off the rope swing into the river. Staying out in this wilderness was the first time we have felt the cold come in at night and sat around the campfire under a blanket of stars roasting marshmallows. Camping in company = my cup spilleth over.

The best bit

The water crossings were by far the kids highlight. The first one we came across we were mighty cautious about. Two un-named family members, have written off their vehicles from similar circumstances. Johnny and Massimo started to step it out when a 4wd (not towing) zoomed through from the opposite direction, the water reaching halfway up his grill, the young driver beaming ‘easy as mate’. In my side mirror I saw a low-profile caravan behind us. If they were going to cross in that thing, with ours significantly raised for this distinct purpose, it should be no prob bro, so we crossed. I held my breath and watched the caravan out of my side mirrors… easy as mate. Through the other side, with the dust caked on to the wet van, we are well and truly dirty. This is what The Gibb is all about. The boys love it. Better than the gorges and the waterfalls. Going through the water crossings and playing footy in the dust and dirt – Johnny loves their carefree enjoyment. I sigh at all the washing.

Done and dusted

So all the guys are asking how did we fare up after 750kms of bumpiness and dust?

·       1 broken microwave hinge

·       2 torn fan wires

·       1 loose utensils drawer

·       2 tiny windscreen rock marks

·       1 ensuite door off its rails

·       1 shower door off its rails

Pretty darn well compared to much carnage we saw and heard about on the way. Broken axels, many punctured tyres, shattered oven, $4000 in towing costs. We had brought ourselves lots of good luck adding to any rock piles on our tracks (that brings good luck we were told). In all the time my phone was out of reception I felt the freeness of not being connected to the world and the only thing I wanted to do once I had coverage was to Google the proper term for rock piles: Cairns (and no, Cairns in QLD is named after a Governor with that name, not piles of rocks).

It may not have been the Cairns bringing us luck, it was most likely the little fact that Johnny had long planned this buying all the right equipment and tightening every nut and bolt to make sure we were Terrain Tuff. It was definitely worth the ride and the reward of entering El Questro at the end.

My hot tip for your next holiday: El Questro

I’m making a big call here people, with Bali off the cards for all the Perthites right now, I’m betting on El Questro being the next holiday destination choice with the quick flight to Kununnara and easy hire car El Questro. This station has many accommodation options and amazing scenery to explore. WOW type scenery. As Emma Gorge appears before your eyes, you’re blown away by it’s beauty. So many houses, restaurants etc have rock walls with plants all over them, well this is an actual real one with a waterfall to boot. It’s beauty is blissful. 

Whilst not everyone can travel The Gibb to see all of the other gorges and waterfalls, this is one of 6 at El Questro along with 3 spectacular look-outs, hot springs, restaurants, horse rides, helicopter and plane joy flights, and la creme de la creme, a great bar and live music.

Non-beginner horse rider

Being on a station I figured I’d play the part and take a horse trail ride through the varied and rugged terrain. I have been on a horse trail ride once before as a kid and was frustrated that it was just a ‘walk’ when I wanted to let loose and gallop so this time I advised I wasn’t a beginner. Technically that was correct. I had a beauty of a horse, Rob Roy, who knew exactly what to do, and trotted and cantered when the others did. The guide continuously stopping to tell me I wasn’t moving in rhythm with the horse, my reins were too long, my legs weren’t tucked in, I wasn’t sitting up straight, to push my butt out, when all I wanted to do was run and not care about technique. I had 15 second bursts of exhilaration. I can see why people love horses and riding. I guess I’ll have 1 proper lesson next time so I can legitimately tick the ‘intermediate’ box on the form as I can’t wait to go again.

Spitting Archer Fish

We took a cruise down Chamberlain Gorge, a great relief from all the walks we’d done through the other gorges (there’s also helicopter and plane options). We saw a saltwater crocodile on the banks with a little wallaby only 2 metres away from it. I was chanting for an attack whilst strangely everyone else was calling for it to run away. How cool would have that been to see a wild nature doco in the flesh? Apparently, a croc won’t pounce until you are 1 metre away so this little wallaby was just a teaser and it’s a good lesson for when we’re fishing for barramundi to stay 2 metres back from the shoreline.

In the water were catfish, barramundi and Archer fish which spit water at insects in the air to make them fall in the water so they can eat them. These fish, trained for all the tourists, spit at you on the boat so you drop them food. It was hilarious and great fun feeding them.

Every night at the bar a very talented guitarist/digeridoo player jammed out some all-time favourite tunes made all the greater by the addition of the didge and his toe-tapping drum beat. It was such a fantastic vibe full of great people celebrating the success of finishing The Gibb River Road.